CHELSEA. Stephen Starr, who is the man behind Philadelphia's acclaimed Striped Bass, brings NYers this huge, lavishly decorated restaurant. The main dining room recalls the opulence of a palace's great hall, and the smaller quarters sport stylish confluences of traditional and contemporary elements. Those with a taste for dim sum find plenty to tempt their palates, including Taro Puff Lollipops (minced pork with ginger), endamme dumplings and lobster egg rolls. More substantial appetites look to masterfully prepared Mongolian lamb chops with crystallized ginger crust, glazed Alaskan black cod with chili eggplant or tea-smoked chicken with chutney. TRAIN: A, C, E, L to 14th St

UPPER EAST SIDE. This hip restaurant, whose contemporary décor is ideal for the Upper East Side, specializes in quality Cantonese cuisine. If you want a true Chinese experience, try their Five-Course Gourmet or Five-Course Seafood menus. Evergreen's surprising wine list sports several French and Californian selections, and their Wine Events are worthwhile affairs, featuring wine tastings and exclusive fixed menus. Dim Sum Brunch Sat-Sun#13;#10;11:30am-3:30pm. Reservations are suggested, and required for Wine Events. TRAIN: 6 to 68th St

MIDTOWN EAST. Ever heard of gourmet Chinese? This is it. The ultra sleek interior serves to highlight the wonderful food Chiam serves. Start with minced beef chowder or shellfish studded seafood bisque. The black peppercorn covered filet mignon is exquisite. A wine lover's wine list. Full bar available. Reservations are recommended; dress is business casual. TRAIN: E, F to Lexington; 6 to 51st St

MIDTOWN EAST. Take a moment to savor the sights, sounds and ultimate tastes of fine Chinese cuisine. The fried dumplings, Grand Marnier Shrimp and "amazing" Peking Duck are the best in the city. Cool off with a sorbet if ordering any of the Szechuan style dishes. Beautiful sepia toned family photos gaze from the walls. Owner and host James Chin ensures that the service you receive is impeccable. An unforgettable Chinese dining experience. Full bar available. Reservations recommended. Dress is business casual. TRAIN: E, F to Lexington Ave; 6 to 51st St

MURRAY HILL. Bring cash only to this Murray Hill eatery. To say the décor is understated would be, well, an understatement. However, it's not a bright and fancy atmosphere that draws in such large crowds of regulars all day long. Known for its traditional Shanghai cuisine, Evergreen wows customers with such dishes as fried yellow carp. All of it for what many regard as the most reasonable prices in the neighborhood. TRAIN: S, 4, 5, 6 to 42nd St-Grand Central